Circuit 17 runs through that connector into the turn signal switch. The white wire is ckt 17 but where in the truck is that terminal connection? The turn signal connector is constructed from black or white plastic measuring roughly 6" x 2" x 1/4" (long and flat) and fastens to the side of the steering column under the dash.
Post a couple of clear pics of the fuse box mounting inside the cab. My recollection is foggy regarding the attachment of the AGC fuse box and the bulkhead connector inside of the cab. Backing out the bolt separates the engine compartment harness from the firewall socket. The single bolt in the center of the bulkhead connector (engine compartment side) retains the engine compartment harness to the firewall mounted connector. I've only be able to separate them about 2 inches from each other by removing the center screw in the bulkhead and the corner screws on my fuse panel. The bottom of the fuse is the hot side, meaning it's getting it's power from behind the fuse panel through the firewall from a 12gauge wire in ckt2 into the bulkhead. Quote from: Spool on August 16, 2017, 11:57:06 PM Thank you. Why somebody once decided to strip the original brake/tail/blinker/reverse lights along with the housing for the bulbs behind the covers. These are screwed into the frame that the hitch is welded to. I only have two bulbs in red covers that operate as my tail-lights, brake lights and blinkers. (Being only a few months experienced with this, I didn't have the confidence to jump them.) Given the condition of wiring, specifically the back of the truck, I figured I'd wait two days for the new switch before trying to jump the terminals. The white wire is ckt 17 but where in the truck is that terminal connection? How do I successfully remove my bulkhead connector and fuse panel? If I'm to check this, it invites the question I've been putting off for now. Your help allowed me to see it in my wiring diagram. What happened when you jumpered "white" to "orange?" Did the brake lamps illuminate?
The white wire runs between the brake switch and the turn signal switch, and is similarly marked * at the turn switch. The white wire (Ckt 17) should measure 12 volts whenever the brake light switch plunger is extended (as when depressing the brake pedal). The "white" wire terminal of the brake light switch connector is marked *. So the lower end of the brake lamp fuse is the "hot" end. The B+ power bus in the fuse box that feeds the brake light fuse is labeled accordingly. The orange wire (Ckt 40) is constant B+ supplied from the brake lamp fuse. * also marks the "orange" wire terminal of the brake light switch connector. The fuse that protects the brake lamp circuit is marked with *. The fuse box is illustrated from both the front and back sides. Pierce wire only when absolutely necessary. Rather than pierce the insulation, probe the terminal. All I've seen are the generally available ones.The test light you have is pretty common. I guess I'm wondering from the diagram what "Base Wire" means, and where do I find them on the general schematic?īTW Twisted Metal, the schematics you have are amazing. I had seen and extra white wire (a pigtail) off of the driver's door-jamb connection. I've been following schematics, as best as I can find them, and been reading Twisted Metal's input on the site-extremely helpful!! I found a collection of orange wires taped with the cuise connection and I will investigate to see if maybe the connector just got cut off. To answer Twisted Metal's question, the car originally had cruise, and I found what was left of that harness, but no cruise is going back in. But the but the sub-assembly harnesses (i.e., brake lights, underdash lights, speakers, dome light, etc.) were in a big box and in poor shape. I have all new M&H harnesses which seem to work fine. You folks are awesome!! Some background.the 79 I'm working on had the harnesses removed by someone and I'm attempting to re-wire the car.
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